Sunday, March 4, 2007

Kamzang Altitude Notes

Project Himalaya Treks
Treks, Climbs & Wild Exploration in the Himalaya
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High altitude, AMS, HACE, HAPE: the buzz-words of the high altitude trekking & climbing world. Everyone knows that something happens to your body at altitude, most people have seen the documentaries on Everest disasters caused by extreme high altitude, or will get advice from previous trekkers before setting off on a trek in the Himalaya. Here is some basic information that might help you to understand what you might experience in the high mountains.
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I collected a few articles by various guides & doctors specializing in high altitude medicine, all of them climbers themselves, and compiled them into one Blog.
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Remember when reading through this that this is only educational. THE most important way to prevent a problem with the altitude is to ascend slowly & safely! If you follow these basic guidelines, drink plenty of water and don't over-exert yourself the first few days at altitude, you will probably experience few altitude symptoms barring a slight headache once in a while.
Everyone feels winded at altitude, so going slowly is rarely an issue!
We carry a full medical kit with us, which includes the basic medications for high altitude, Diamox, Nifedipine & Dexamethasone.
We also carry pain relievers, anti-inflamatory drugs, diuretics, inhalers and steroidal drugs, among other things.
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This excerpt was written by Jim Thorton and taken from National Geographic Adventure Magazine . I found it to be a good, basic description of the drugs you might see, take or hear about while on a trek.
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Diamox (Acetazolamide)
At high altitudes, increased exhalations cause CO2 levels to drop, setting off a complex chain reaction that makes the blood alkaline and decreases respiration. Diamox causes the blood to be slightly acidic, stimulating breathing once again. It is a diuretic, so drinks extra water when taking Diamox.
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Blood Pressure Drugs
Both nifedipine & Viagra are thought to prevent HAPE (see further down this Blog) by lowering pulmonary blood pressure, but Viagra apparently has an advantage in that it works specifically on arteries in the lungs.
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Analgesics
Experts are divided as to whether aspirin and ibuprofen act as painkillers or anti-inflammatories, but these drugs can be effective in easing altitude-induced headaches.
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Asthma Drugs
An inhaler filled with salmeterol (such as Severent), albuterol, or other so-called beta-agonist asthma medications appear to conbat HAPE by relaxing smooth muscles in the lungs and facilitating the clearance of fluids.
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Ginko Biloba
Several placebo-controlled studies have indicated that this herbal supplement may reduce symptoms of garden-variety acute mountain sickness (AMS); one study found no effect.
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Dexamethasone (Decadron)
This isn't included in Jim Thorton's list, so I borrowed from Deitz's article below:
Dexamethasone (Decadron®) is a potent steroid used to treat brain edema. Whereas acetazolamide treats the problem (by accelerating acclimatization), dexamethasone treats the symptoms (the distress caused by hypoxia). Dexamethasone can completely remove the symptoms of AMS in a few hours, but it does not help you acclimatize. If you use dexamethasone to treat AMS you should not go higher until the next day, to be sure the medication has worn off and is not hiding a lack of acclimatization.Side effects include euphoria in some people, trouble sleeping, and an increased blood sugar level in diabetics.
(Dietz's article is very detailed on all of these drugs, side affects, dosages, etc, so read on ...)
I have basic medical training, CPR, First Aid & WRF (wilderness first reponder) as well as experience specifically with high altitude trekking (NOT climbing), but please get a check-up from your doctor if you have ANY question before your health before setting off on a trek. This is for YOUR safety ...
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PAC Bag
Often called a Gammow bag after the inventor. This bag simulates being at a lower altitude, and in extreme cases of altitude sickness is used to bring someone down to an altitude in which they felt fine. We have one with us.
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Satellite Phone
We have at least one sat phone with us on a trek, so helicopter evacuations in an emergency are not difficult to arrange.
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And to reiterate, trekking to altitude in itself is nothing to be scared of; in fact, I love the feel of the air higher up, and feel groggy once down in Kathmandu or (especially) Delhi. Trekking in the Himalaya is an amazing, life-altering experience, and we want you to enjoy it without any apprehensiveness.
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Happy Trekking!

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